WHY GO: The Great Western Catskills – Delaware County NY region is the most remote of all the Catskills counties. But it’s ridiculously gorgeous no matter what backroad you choose to drive.
(Need more dreamy destination ideas in New York State? Check out our Best Romantic Getaways in NY).
No, it’s not your imagination. The air, water, and the very gleanings of the earth are amazingly clean here. Why? Because Delaware County is in NY City’s Watershed. So, water that courses south to the city has to be free of chemicals and toxins that would ordinarily come with building factories, subdivisions, shopping malls, and large developments. You won’t find any of those here.
For generations, city slickers have been summering north of NYC in “The Catskills” – an upstate New York area so large, it encompasses four counties: Ulster County, Sullivan County, Greene County (Great Northern Catskills), and this: the Great Western Catskills of Delaware County NY.
Replete with farms, fine fishing rivers, beverage makers, hiking and biking trails, and a growing repertoire of artists and other creatives, Delaware County NY is arguably the least visited part of the Catskills. It’s often said that there are more cows than people here. Yet, it’s most deserving of at least two- or three-days exploration.
Most of the county’s small towns – Delhi, Andes, Roxbury, Margaretville, Bovina, Downsville, Stamford, Meredith – have a handful of shops and restaurant worthy of your time – some of which we’ve highlighted below. All have a grassroots, locally-made, collab-entrepreneurial vibe.
The Great Western Catskills region, while not quite sizzling, is surely getting hotter. So follow along to get the best of Delaware County NY.
Where to Stay in Great Western Catskills – Delaware County NY
Although Delaware County NY is packed with B&B’s and Airbnb’s, lodgings, like the Andes Hotel below, provide hefty servings of “nostalgia” for a younger, retro-seeking, demographic.
The Roxbury Motel, in Roxbury NY was on the forefront of this trend when, after nearly 40 years, in 2004, it reopened as a scorching hot theme hotel (with additions and expansions over the last 20 years).
STAY: Andes Hotel, Andes NY
Although not as splashy as The Roxbury, the Andes Hotel has plenty of charm: hewing more towards the age of bungalow and summer camp tourism in the early to mid 1900’s than the eclectically themed décor preferred by the what’s-new-and-cool crowd.
First Impressions of Andes Hotel
Here, it’s Mountain Lodge meets 40’s farm-kitchen in the small town of Andes NY. “Hotel,” though, is a misnomer – at least since the 70’s, when the old 1800’s building, originally built for food AND lodging, became strictly a restaurant and tavern.
Single story, motel-ish guest rooms out back hug a beautiful courtyard filled with plantings and patio seating. Walk around and you’ll see touches that border on corny: a large rooster atop a roof, and pink tin pig making a statement in the breezeway.
Check-in in a small space that puts one in mind of a summer camp office. A take on lodgings of yore – distressed faux leather couch; board games piled high; rotating fan – the reception portends a rustic, far from luxe experience. But fear not – guest rooms have all the accoutrements of a high-end hotel, including wi-fi and flat screen TV.
Guest Rooms at Andes Hotel
Rooms sport earth toned décor. Plaid, goldenrod, and moss-colored bedding cover comfy beds. Paintings of antlered deer on walls let you know you’re not in the city. #6 features both a Queen bed, and two bunkbeds – perfect for a young family of four (or 4 open-minded friends).
Yellow linoleum floors, industrial clock, small, mint-hued Smeg-ish Frigidaire help set a retro scene. But the flat screen TV, and small modern table for two let you know you’re not roughing it.
Bathrooms sports quirky, quippy rooster wallpaper, and a deep sink seemingly culled from a farm kitchen (the antithesis of contemporary splash-back shallow sinks so in fashion now – that honestly boggle my mind). You can actually bathe a small child in this one.
There’s ground coffee and sugar in mason jars, Half & Half in the above-mentioned Frigidaire and a couple of twee Andes Hotel mugs – so, really, you don’t need to leave the premises if all you need is love and coffee.
Andes Hotel Grounds
If you want to leave the room, grab a coffee or morning bite from Andes Diner across the street, and by all means sit outside in the inviting, flowering courtyard and be mesmerized by the mountains beyond.
Coming Soon
Coming in late 2024, Interwoven Wellness will set up shop above the Andes Hotel Restaurant. Though not run by the hotel, you can easily book treatments through the website. Kelsey Adams – massage therapist, and husband Tobias Maendel, acupuncturist, will be just steps away from your hotel room.
Andes Hotel Restaurant
See below under Where to Eat
Things to do in Delaware County NY: Great Western Catskills
KAYAK/FISHING: Al’s Sports Store, Downsville
Kayaking and fishing outfitter, Al’s Sports Store, runs shuttles back from 3 or 6-mile kayaking and canoe trips on the calm stretch of the East Branch of the Delaware River that begin right outside.
Fishermen and women will also find a huge assortment of rods and reels for both classic and fly fishing – and all the gear you’ll need to catch trout in both the river and on the adjacent Pepacton Reservoir.
Al’s also sells Amish-made furniture. My favorite has to be the bear figurine toilet paper holders. The perfect housewarming gift for your friend’s mountain cabin.
Al also owns the riverfront motel across the street: just $85 per night for a clean modest room.
DRIVE OR HIKE: Mount Utsayantha Fire Tower, Stamford
It’s a bumpy mile long assent on a rutted dirt road to the top of Mount Utsayantha (aka “Mount U”) – either on foot or by car – where you’ll find both a Fire Tower and cell and transmission towers. But, it’s totally worth it for the dazzling views of the valley below.
One caveat about the 60-ft tall Fire Tower: signs indicate that you must “Climb at your own risk” with only “2 people at a time allowed on the tower.” With no one else in sight, I began to make my way up the splintered wooden steps and the whole thing started swinging. So, I backed off. Better to sit on a bench overlooking the beautiful view than attempt a higher vantage point and risk injury when no one’s around.
DRINK: Great Western Catskills Beverage Maker Trail
Find your next favorite craft-made hard cider, beer, wine, or spirit on this Great Western Catskills Beverage Makers Trail, with nearly two dozen makers to meet.
DO: Play Golf
There are 5 Golf Courses in the Great Western Catskills – most with modest greens fees. Try the semi challenging 18-hole College Golf Course at SUNY Delhi: it’s both a USGA Member course – and an Audubon Sanctuary. Quite spectacular in fall when the Catskill Mountain foliage bursts into all kinds of colors.
HIKE: Flat To Challenging Trails
What’s your pleasure? A meander or a lung-busting summit hike? The Great Western Catskills have both and everything in between. The 26-mile multi-use Catskill Scenic Trail runs along the East Branch of the Delaware River and is considered moderately challenging.
Walk through wildflower fields on the 1.3 mile Palmer Hill Lower Meadow Loop trail. Negotiate rock outcroppings and cliffs on the moderate-difficult 1.1 mile Quarry Trail to the summit. And for a tranquil walk in the woods, try the easy 1.6 mile round trip Andes Rail Trail (with an additional 1.9 mile round trip Bullet Hole Spur, considered moderate).
Things to do in Delhi NY
SHOP: DELCO
Nothing spells home pride quite like the t-shirts and motorcross attire emblazoned with the DELCO (Delaware County) name that fly off the racks at the tiny DELCO shop.
Owners Doug Perrett and author/illustrator, David Covell, collaborate with multiple sports and fashion entities (including Supreme Fox Racing Motorcross) to create their must-have products, and sell them from this postage-stamp sized store.
SHOP: This and That
I’m not into antiques. But even I must admit that This and That, a highly curated collection of vintage stuff, is worth popping into. Check out the basket of random old billiard balls.And, what to do with pre-electric weighty irons? Repurpose them as doorstops.
SHOP: Strickland Hollow Distillery/Bottle Shop/ Restaurant, Delhi
Although the actual distillery (and event barn), and working farm is about 15 minutes away in Meredeth NY (photo above), Jerry and Erica Pellegrino run their Strickland Hollow Distillery tasting room and bottle shop (and restaurant in warm seasons) in the town of Delhi. Come to try the hooch, and then pick up a bottle of Strickland Hollow Apple Brandy and/or Gin– and other New York State made wine, beer, and cider. (See below for restaurant info).
SHOP: Tay Tea
Owner of Tay Tea, Nini Ordoubadi, hand-blends unique teas for cocktails, wellness, and for any tea lover, really. She founded Tay Tea in NYC in 2003, and has since moved to and set up shop in Delhi. Ordoubadi invites everyone to come in to her tea shop, showroom, and “atelier – a flourishing laboratory of experimentation, enchantment, and delight.” Who can resist a place like that?
SHOP: The Stonehouse
Pick up some hand-drawn greeting cards, a pack of Keith Haring playing cards, artful jewelry, locally made lotions and potions, and a cornucopia of woven home-goods and gifts at The Stonehouse.
Where to Eat in Delhi NY and Surrounding Great Western Catskills
EAT: Strickland Hollow Café, Delhi
*Open Late Spring to Early Fall
Eat al fresco on Delhi’s main street, and people watch as you dine on all permutations of “Conserva” – aka canned fish – in a sandwich, in pasta, or mashed as a dip. You’ll also find egg dishes, steak, and charcuterie at Strickland Hollow Café for those who are not quite tempted by fish from cans. But let me tell you – I was smitten by the smoked Atlantic Salmon sandwich on a baguette slathered with Caper Dill Mayo. Absolutely fantastic. This place is about as unique and “specialty food” as it gets. An eatery that wins A+ for originality.
EAT/COFFEE: Hollow, Delhi
Jake Adams did stints in NYC restaurants (most notably, as chef de cuisine at Momofuku), before moving to Delhi and opening Hollow with partner, Eden Rehmet. So it’s no surprise that Hollow’s “elevated” casual food is locally sourced, sustainable, and has remained one of the best restaurants and coffee shops in town.
EAT: Andes Hotel Restaurant, Andes
So, the dining area at the Andes Hotel Restaurant is as staid as the women’s bathroom is “beyond” – a Dolly Parton fantasia worth the pee(k). But, let me say that I had one of the best meals of my summer – if not my whole year – here, and it wasn’t even a complete meal: Just an appetizer that was rapturously good.
The Smoked Trout Dip arrived to the table with two pared-down, deeply browned and crispy everything bagels, along with a ramekin overflowing with creamy chunks of smoked fish. I was told that Trout Dip is a specialty in these parts – so of course I had to try it. Now, I stare at the photo I took of it, and my mouth waters. Like Pavlov’s dog.
EAT: EightyMain, Delhi
Sure – go ahead and order the unconventional charred romaine salad, or the steak, chicken, or trout at Eightymain in Delhi. But, if you don’t get one of the homemade pasta dishes – al dente to perfection – you’re missing out.
EAT: Brushland Eating House, Bovina
As the Roxbury is to lodging, Brushland is to eateries, (in Delaware County NY, at least), according to the glossiest of magazines that covered both with the greatest of enthusiasm. “People would drive 4 hours from the City during the pandemic just to pick up their BBQ,” said Delhi and Delaware County booster, Lisa Wisely. Now, Brushland serves “family style three course meals” Thursday, Friday and Saturday eves, with rotating menus, for $75pp. “We are here to throw you a party. Take advantage.” FYI – Brushland also offers four AirBnB options on property.
EAT: Locals Recommend
For Breakfast – Café Mornings and Arkville Bread and Breakfast, both in Arkville NY; The Andes Diner (Andes), Blue Bee Café (Delhi), Stamford Coffee and TP’s Café (Stamford NY).
Other meals – Hamden Inn & Lounge (Hamden), O’Neills Shire Pub (Delhi), The Old Mill (Roxbury).
