What’s it like to sail close to land, and cruise aboard a ship so small, you can get to know almost everyone by the end of full week? I found out on a trip up the venerable Hudson River on an American Cruise Lines Fall Foliage Cruise during the most glorious time of year in the Northeast: Autumn.
There’s something transcendent about cruising through NY State’s Hudson River Valley for a week in this intimate way: particularly in late Fall, when the Palisades and Catskill Mountains burst into color.
Why the American Cruise Lines Hudson River Cruise?
Each of the six ports of call has a particular focus – and each with themes and historic sites that will ring familiar to anyone even mildly aquainted with American History. There’s the country’s oldest and most well known Military Academy; the birthplace and home of one of the nation’s most beloved Presidents; a State Capital; and settings for art and short stories that you will instantly recognize.
On its Hudson River Fall Foliage Cruise itinerary, American Cruise Lines makes stops in Catskill NY/Hudson NY (homes of renowned artists from the Hudson River School of Art), Albany NY (the futuristic Empire State Plaza and dazzling NY State Capitol), Kingston NY, Hyde Park (Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Birthplace and Library), West Point Military Academy, and the town of Sleepy Hollow (Washington Irving’s Home).
In my early 60’s, I was on the younger side of the average American Cruise Lines passenger for this particular cruise. (Other ACL cruises skew younger, especially in the summer months on the East Coast and on Western itineraries, with a growing interest among older GenXer’s for trips on ACL’s newer ships).
The Small Ship Difference
Small ships are vastly different than those large floating cities that advertise spectacular shows, a multitude of bars, endless water slides, and zip-lines, for you and your 7,000 closest friends.
In this case, a few months prior to departure, I’d received boarding passes, luggage tags and a small, 20 page brochure that included maps, phone numbers, information about towns we’d be visiting, and shore excursions.
Emblazoned on almost each page was an 800 number to call with any questions or special requests. It seemed so tidy, to the point, and low-key — almost too easy.
It was that easy.
Distinctively American Cruise Lines
Said one repeat ACL guest, “this is the best way to see the USA. These days, with the complications of connecting flights and weather cancelations, it makes more sense to take a river cruise from port to port.”
Not only is this brand of small ship cruising effortless, it is intimate and personal. American Cruise Lines prides itself on its “if we don’t have it we’ll get it for you” approach to service.
ACL is champs when it comes to accessibility concerns. During the course of the cruise, I’d never seen such tenderness and patience towards passengers with disabilities as I did on ACL. Not only were staff whizzes at getting wheelchairs and scooters on and off the ship (even on tenders!), they were adept and respectful while doing so.
No Need For Formal-Wear
These cruises are totally low key: there is no need to pack formal apparel. Guests are not obliged to dress up for dinner, as there’s really no dress code except for the sensible kind. Most men and women wear jeans and walking shoes during the day and comfortable slacks at night. Some do dress up, but you don’t have to.
In that vein, ACL is notable for having one of the best nightly Cocktail Hours in the business – with premium spirits – all on the house.
From 5:30-6:30, theLounge turns into a true yak-fest and introvert’s worst nightmare. But even wallflowers don’t remain that way for long. This is a true social hour, and anyone who partakes will find someone to talk to.
The Captain in His/Her Element
At some point when at dock, members of the Eagle Society (those who’ve take at least one ACL cruise) are invited up to the bridge to meet the Captain for an intimate tour of his or her domain.
In our case, it was the truly professional and humble Captain Scheiferstein who explained the highly advanced radar, depth finder, and GPS.
The “wheel” is actually a set of knobs – like a video game console. Although it appears the ship can steer itself, I was relieved to see such a capable human being at the controls.
First Impressions of American Cruise Lines
The cruise ship ties up at Pier 36 on the East River, nearly beneath the Manhattan Bridge. At the pier’s entrance, deckhands took my luggage, and pointed to the pedicab that, with a couple of pedal pushes, whisked me right to gangway.
As I’ve previously mentioned, the embarkation process for ACL is so casual and uncomplicated; scoring a table at a hot NY City restaurant is tougher in comparison.
ACL ships typically commence boarding at 10:30, with final boarding at 12:30 for 1:30 departure. Those who arrive early can have lunch and snacks, and get to wander all five decks, accessed by two swift elevators. Since the process is so free-flowing, you won’t find much of a line to get aboard – if any at all.
At the gangway, staff checked me in, handed me a keycard, and I was up in my room within seconds.
Chic Staterooms With Balconies
Guest Rooms on newer ships are much more chic, and larger, than those on older ships. In earth tones, modern and elegant, each guest room features enough storage areas (dressers, closets) to accommodate the contents of two large suitcases.
Each room has a huge flat screen TV and the ultimate-in-comfort beds wrapped in starched white duvets. Large bright bathrooms feature basket-weave mosaic floors and a human-size shower.
As in any luxury hotel worth its stars, there’s turn down service each night. I came back to my room after dinner to the curtains drawn, lights dimmed, sheets folded down just right, and soft music playing.
Dining on ACL
Conceivably, you can eat all day long. Coffee and fresh-baked treats are set out in the Lounge at 6:30 AM, breakfast is served between 7:30 and 9am, lunch at 12:00, drinks and appetizers from 5:30 – 6:30, at which point you sit down to dinner (which includes complimentary wine).
Overall, food onboard is very good, bordering on excellent, surpassing the “Big Ship” cuisine in quality and freshness. Chefs provision at each port and utilize local or regional ingredients as much as possible; showing their work to best effect, as dishes are beautifully plated.
I loved the option to order half-portions, which made it much easier to “clean my plate” and not feel overstuffed.
Waiters and waitresses are young, but diligent and pleasant, with great memories. By the end of the trip, one young waiter knew exactly how I liked my eggs: dry scrambled, lots of onions, side of breakfast potatoes and ketchup.
Shoving Off and Ports of Call
At 1:30PM, the ACL ship slipped from the dock, and we were silently on our way.
The day was bright and sunny. Though a bit chilly, these were perfect conditions for a spectacular sail down the East River, around the Battery, and up the Hudson River.
There is nothing that compares to seeing New York City from the water: girders under the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges; the mirror-like Freedom Tower piercing the sky; new Hudson Yards with funky art installation, The Vessel, and more.
We were afforded a view of 30 Hudson Yards, featuring a walkway supported by….air. Protruding 65 feet from the office building, 1,000 feet above ground, this Observation Deck, called “Edge,” allows visitors who dare to get a selfie from the extended corner.
Leaving New York City
The Captain takes it slowly – there’s no need to rush. And so, the 120-mile trip from Manhattan to Hudson that would take 2 1/2 hours by car took us twelve. We docked by 1:30am.
In Catskill and Hudson NY, we had pulled up to the little island where the river’s namesake,,Henry Hudson, anchored his ship, the Half Moon, in 1609.
Much of the Hudson is wild without much evidence of habitation. So, it was easy to imagine how Hudson, and 200 years later, Thomas Cole, the “Father of the Hudson River School of Art,” would have marveled at this landscape. Two hundred years on, we’re still in awe.
Hudson/Catskill
Though there are several choices for shore excursions in Catskill/Hudson, I chose Olana – home of Frederick Church. Others chose the home of Thomas Cole across the river.
It was a dismal, rainy day, and yet even the oldest of the ACL guests were chipper and game. It was rare to hear a complaint (at least about physical challenges) from anyone – another hallmark of the American Cruise Line demographic.
The weather had turned and stayed cold, drizzly and cloudy all week. This made for atmospheric photos, and lots of indoor time.
By afternoon, we shoved off again, stealthily gliding north toward Albany through the mist. The deep fog muted autumn’s colors in a fuzzy, rather spooky, tableau.
Albany NY
In Albany, we docked in an industrial port two miles from downtown. Neighboring a scrap metal heap, it wasn’t the most aesthetically appealing place. Still, vibrant trees that peeked above warehouses, and two looming cargo cranes added color to this cloudy day.
A shuttle into town ran every 30 minutes, but I chose to stay in and read in the morning, venturing into Albany in the afternoon on the Albany Experience city tour, with a stop at the New York State Capitol building.
Other guests were doing laundry, reading in the Lounge and puzzling out puzzles in one of several smaller library rooms on the ship.
Kingston NY
Day three, in Kingston, I wandered through Lower Kingston, into the marvelous Hudson River Maritime Museum, and learned about the museum’s new boat – Solaris – the first tour boat powered only by sunlight.
West Point
The next day, we docked in Newburgh and were bused to West Point for a great bus tour, adding a Patriotic tint to our otherwise art immersive cruise.
Sleepy Hollow
October 31st – Halloween – was the perfect time to be in Sleepy Hollow, home of the Headless Horseman. We visited Sunnyside, home to Washington Irving: America’s first ghost-story writer, to see where the man who penned Rip Van Winkle and The Legend of Sleepy Hollow lived along the Hudson.
Why American Cruise Lines?
At the first Cocktail hour, I met George, the only single male onboard. At age 78, this was George’s 4th trip on ACL. He’d been widowed years earlier, and was practically a hermit.
“I come on these cruises to get out of my shell,” he told me. Despite his self-described shyness, he was funny and engaging.
By the end of the cruise, everyone knew George and cared about him. When he got sick one night and didn’t come to cocktail hour, several couples and a bunch of staff when to his room to check up on him. By the next morning, he was fine, and seemed overwhelmed by the attention.
But I’ll reiterate: Why was I so excited about my American Cruise Lines cruise? Due to people like George. Because of the caring. Because this company, above all, brings people together, despite geographical, political, and age differences. And in these divisive times, what more can you ask for?
American Cruise Lines hosted Malerie Yolen-Cohen for this Hudson River Fall Foliage Cruise. However, all opinions and views are entirely her own.
Hi Malerie. Loved reliving our cruise. Excellent description of what we did and excellent photos. So wonderful meeting you and spending time with you. Maybe we’ll meet again.
It was a pleasure meeting you, Karen. You helped make that cruise warm and welcoming! Malerie
Hi Malerie! It was great fun reading your review and lit up many fond memories, one of which was meeting and spending some time with you. Would do it unhesitatingly again if I could! A small correction: I’m from Arizona, land of the Grand Canyon and numerous other gorgeous, spectacular places, not Long Island! (P. S. No grudge against L.I.; I did live on the North Shore in Great Neck as a teenager, but that was many years ago! Let’s keep in touch.