WHY GO: Among the many things to do in Hartford CT, the most romantic-for-bibliophiles are chances to commune with the spirits of celebrity American authors of yore. Some, more yore than others. Mark Twain, Harriett Beecher Stowe, and Founding Father, Noah Webster all lived in Connecticut’s Capital City – and all of their homes are open for tours.
Or, are you curious about why Connecticut is called “The Constitution State?” Come to Hartford to find out. The groundwork for the US Constitution was laid right here – in a 1639 sermon, The Fundamental Orders, by the Reverend Thomas Hooker – calling for a representative government in Connecticut.
In Hartford CT, and the more suburban West Hartford next door, you can tour the State Capitol, the abovementioned writers’ houses, interact with state-of-the-art exhibits at the really fun Connecticut Science Center, and peruse the art at America’s first public Art Museum.
You can also enjoy a plethora of great restaurants, several breweries, and two new boutique hotels. Obviously, there’s so much more to this Insurance hub than actuarial tables. Come for the business, stay for the pleasure on this Constitutional Getaway.
Need more dreamy travel ideas in Connecticut? Check out our Best Romantic Getaways in CT post.
Looking for more quirky things to do throughout the Constitution State? Check out this Best Under the Radar Things to in Connecticut post.
Things to Do in Hartford CT and Bordering West Hartford
VISIT: Connecticut’s Old State House
Connecticut’s Old State House is the only place on earth where you can see Mark Twain’s bicycle, a large Gilbert Stewart portrait of George Washington, rooms in which the Amistad captives were tried, and a two-headed calf all in the same building.
Dwarfed by insurance skyscrapers that surround it, the Old State House was one of two State Capitol buildings in Connecticut (alternating with New Haven) before it became Hartford City Hall in 1878 to 1913.
In 1996, the State House was renovated to include a wonderful interactive exhibit: History Is All Around Us. You’ll find out how Asylum Ave. got its name. Ok, I’ll tell you: it was named after the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, now American School for the Deaf.
From Native American settlement to a colonial era town, as a factory city, then a national insurance hub – the history of Hartford unspools in an entertaining way.
Upstairs, tour the old Court Room where the Amistad slaves and abolitionist Prudence Crandall were tried. Circus master, PT Barnum, served in the CT House of Representatives, which met in these chambers.
Maven Favorite Museum of Curiosities is also on the second floor. Though it’s stocked with Victorian-era oddities, like “newly-discovered” creatures from the China Seas, it also features a Barnum/Ripley esque taxidermied Two Headed Calf – the most photographed curiosity here. Check website for days and hours open and admission fees.
TOUR: Connecticut State Capitol Building
Take a guided or self-guided tour of Connecticut’s High Victorian Gothic style State House, built in 1878 and completely renovated in 1989.
Statues of state heroes Prudence Crandall (who was arrested for accepting an African American girl into her private school in 1832), and Nathan “I regret that I have but one life to lose for my country” Hale stand proudly in these gilded-age halls.
Check out the fountain beneath the staircase used to fill buckets of water for the legislator’s horses hitched to the back porch. The fanciful Victorian-era interior, ornately painted and carved, is worth seeing if only for a few minutes. You must RSVP for guided tours – free, on the hour 9:15-1:15 Mon-Fri. Self-Guided tours weekends only.
VISIT: Connecticut Science Center
At nine stories, the LEED Certified green Connecticut Science Center looms over the Hartford waterfront. Its top floor provides incredible views of the Connecticut River and beyond. But that’s not why you should visit.
Of course, museums like this are the key to making science entertaining and relevant for the newest generations. But you don’t have to be a kid to have a blast here.
Try your skill on the “Downhill Dash” ski racing arcade game, find out how far a robot can throw a ball, and create the new big thing in the “Invention Dimension” Exhibit.
Explore outer space – and “inner space” (your DNA), and indulge in other Mad Scientist adventures. Hundreds of games, displays and state of the art experiments will keep you happy for hours, if not days. Check website for days and hours open and admission costs.
VISIT: Wadsworth Atheneum
Opened in 1844, the Wadsworth Atheneum was the country’s first public art museum. It has been on the cutting edge of art acquisition ever since. Avant guarde for its time, the Wadsworth was the first American museum to display works by Salvador Dali, Joan Miro, Piet Mondrian, and Max Ernst.
And with over 50,000 pieces in a variety of galleries, the Wadsworth is a terrific place to wander and discover those that call to you. If Sol LeWitt is your man, you’re in luck, as his murals grace several soaring spaces throughout the museum.
The “Lady” in John Singleton Copley’s 1780 Portrait of a Lady bears a striking resemblance to Dame Maggie Smith as the Dowager Countess of Grantham on Downton Abby. I could have also lingered longer around the massive John Trumbull oils – especially The Signing of the Declaration of Independence and The Battle Of Bunker Hill. But countless other galleries beckoned. Check website for hours and admission fees.
VISIT: Mark Twain House and Museum, West Hartford
It’s incredible to think that a couple of decades ago, Samuel Clemens’s (pen name, Mark Twain) Hartford home was in danger of financial collapse. Now, no less than National Geographic declares the Mark Twain House one of 10 Best Historic Homes worldwide. (In the US, only the Twain House, Monticello and Mount Vernon made the cut).
Subsequently, Twain lovers flock here by the tens of thousands. After the Southern humorist married Olivia Langdon, a Yankee girl from Rochester, NY in 1870, they moved to Hartford to be near Twain’s publisher. Twain wrote most of his best known books – Tom Sawyer, Huckleberry Finn, The Prince and the Pauper, and A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court – during his time here from 1874-1891.
Tour Twain’s House
A tour of the 11,500 square foot home takes you through many of the 25 rooms. The first floor, designed by Tiffany to suggest Moroccan, Indian, Japanese and jungle themes, is arguably the most dramatic.
Learn about the joys and tragedies in Twain’s life, why he might have been considered Best Dad Ever to his three beloved daughters, and how he would routinely rile up his prudish wife each evening as she edited his writing by the fireplace.
Livy nicknamed her husband “Youth,” because he always acted like a kid. Twain called his darling wife “Gravity,” as she kept his feet on the ground.
A lover of gadgets and an “early adopter,” Twain installed central heating, purchased one of the first home telephones, and rigged up a bedside gas reading lamp using a rubber tube that extended from his gaslight chandelier (and still set up this way).
My favorite room is on the 3rd floor, where Twain played billiards with friends. I can just imagine the trash talk around the pool table: the great writer’s presence is still palpable there.
According to some staff accounts, in fact, visitors report the smell of cigar smoke, which has on occasion, mysteriously set off the fire alarm. Check website for hours open, tour times, and admission costs.
VISIT: Harriet Beecher Stowe Center, West Hartford
In 1852, President Abraham Lincoln purportedly said to Harriet Beecher Stowe, “So you are the woman who wrote the book that started this Great War.” Although there is no proof that Lincoln actually utterred those words, there’s no doubt that her anti-slavery book, Uncle Tom’s Cabin, had an effect on the national psyche of that time. And you can learn all about the “power of one” at the Harriet Beecher Stowe Center.
From her home in Maine, Beecher Stowe wrote with seven small children underfoot. (Her husband, who she referred to as “my Rabbi,” was a Professor of Theology at Bowdoin College).
As the daughter, sister, wife, and mother of a line of well-known Ministers – Beecher Stowe first composed what became the best-selling anti-slavery book, Uncle Tom’s Cabin, as a serialized story in the Washington DC Abolitionist newspaper, The National Era.
Stowe was surprised by increasing public interest and frenzy over her installments. Released in 1852, Uncle Tom’s Cabin was one of the biggest sellers in the 19th Century, second only to the Bible. As such, Beecher-Stowe’s book was instrumental in changing public opinion about slavery in America.
As today, there were product tie-ins –commemorative plates, figurines and booklets. No doubt Solomon Northup took note of all this interest. His memoir, Twelve Years A Slave, was released the following year.
By the time the Stowes moved next door to Mark Twain in the mid 1870’s, Harriet had written most of her 30 published books.
In addition to giving tours of Beecher Stowe’s home, The Stowe Center, a National Historic Site, offers a wide selection of provocative and timely programs and tours. Check website for tours and programing.
TOUR: Noah Webster House and West Hartford historical Society
Pay homage to Noah Webster, the “Father of American Lexicography” best known for developing our country’s first word glossary, at his home in West Hartford CT. We have Noah Webster to thank for the heavy dictionary, used and loved by SAT students from coast to coast. But there’s so much more to learn about one of America’s first great educators. He was born in this house on October 16, 1758, and found books and learning far more interesting than farming. So, off he went, at age 16, to nearby Yale University, graduating in 1778.
Tour Webster’s Home
Begin with a 14-minute orientation video to learn about this most underrated Founding Father, who helped shape the new American Colonies into one cultural entity. In effect, Webster was as much a “Nation Builder” as his compatriots, Hamilton, Jay, and Monroe. Like them, Webster was also a Federalist, arguing for a National Government in his essays, “Sketches of American Policy.” (These pre-dated the Federalist Papers, which were based on Webster’s work). He supported a National Government with strong Federal authority, and pushed for investing Congress with the power to make laws.
A man before his time, Noah Webster stated the need for a free and universal education system, and called for the end of slavery, which he wrote, “dishonors a free government.” Webster standardized the American vernacular to divorce it from British spelling and pronunciation, and in doing so, unified the American people in a bond of common language. Until Webster, kids had not learned proper pronunciation of words. He taught precision and uniformity in speech and wrote the first dictionary to record how people actually spoke.
Champion of Women’s Rights
Noah Webster was a champion of women’s rights, was ferociously anti-slavery, a prolific writer, and marketing genius. Webster founded the Union School in New Haven and Amherst Academy (now College) in Amherst MA. These days, however, the man is best known for his Dictionary – first published in 1828, with 70,000 word definitions.
Take a self-guided forty-five-minute tour, via IPad to learn about Webster and the two-hundred-year-old book that has never gone out of print. His childhood home is set up as it would have been in 1774, when he left for Yale. Watch him “speak” in his own words (ah, the wonders of tablets and videos), and gaze upon some of his belongings, including his wedding ring, and a college clothing trunk bedazzled with his initials. Check website for hours open, tour times, and entry fees.
TASTE: Two Craft Breweries
Leave it to beer-makers to revitalize former industrial and blighted neighborhoods and bring them back to life. To whit:
New Park Brewing, West Hartford
Brews are simply, and “brightly” named. Lumin, Expression, Double Fragment. Shine on
Thomas Hooker Brewery @ Colt
Down a blond Hooker (ale), and other brews, within the renovated ruins of the former Colt Arms factory.
DO: Ride the Bushnell Park Carousel
One buck gets you 3 ½ minutes on one of the 48 hand-carved horses of the 1914 Bushnell Park Carousel. Open seasonally.
EXPERIENCE: Riverfront Recapture Events
From May – November, the Connecticut Riverfront bursts into song, dance and quirky events. Find out what’s going on on this Riverfront Recapture Website.
RIDE: DASH
Free transportation! The DASH bus makes 12 stops throughout downtown Hartford from the Convention and Visitor’s Center. Check website for schedules.
Best Restaurants in Hartford and West Hartford CT
EAT: Artisan at Delamar, West Hartford
On a clear Tuesday eve, tables at Artisan were filled with eager eaters. A beachy vibe, the outdoor paved patio gives way to a sandy area peppered with raised vegetable and flower garden beds. Yep – most of the produce on your plate comes right from your open air dining room.
Inside, hand-painted murals and planks of wood from old Hartford area tobacco barns, dress up the walls. The floor is laid with hand-molded bricks. The private “Copper Room” is capped by a gold-leaf embossed ceiling. The food is both innovative and traditional. My favorite when I dined there in the summer? The killer addictive Fried Green Tomato Sliders with bacon and slaw. Had I known how good they were, I would have put in three orders and called it a day. (May or may not be on the menu now).
But of course there are other great dishes on tap. I’m a fan of Prosciutto and Mellon, and this version, with a fresh-picked basil leaf nestled between the ham and melon, and set on a splash of hot chili sauce, added a delightful nose-running kick. The Super Food Chopped Salad, rich with kale, garbanzo beans, and other healthy plants, was hearty and heart-healthy. Entrees range from Butternut Squash to Hangar Steak. Something for everyone.
But save room for decadent cheesecake pudding with salted caramel topping. Or the Ricotta Donuts. These balls of goodness emerge hot and light from the kitchen, and keep well in the fridge. They still taste amazing cold, as breakfast the next day. Just sayin’.
EAT/WEST HARTFORD: Locale Love
Besides Artisan, locals also love Vinted – a wine bar offering 60 wines by the glass and great upscale bar food, and Savoy Pizzeria for best pies. Also, Avert (French) and Treva (Italian + Avert spelled backwards) owned by the same team. All are within walking distance of the Delamar Hotel.
EAT/HARTFORD: Parkville Market
This indoor-outdoor Parkville Market food hall – the first in Connecticut – is located in the gentrifying, formerly industrial, Parkville neighborhood of Hartford. You’ll find some great ethnic foods from around the world in stall after stall – from Puerto Rico to Japan, from Brazil to Mumbai and on and on – 22 in all. I was very satisfied with my customized Poke Bowl from Hartford Poke Co. A Hawaiian delight in urban Connecticut.
EAT: Max Downtown
Max Downtown is one of nine restaurants in the “Max” group. This high-end, leather-clad, atmospherically clubby steak house also serves up fish from “top of boat” and other inventive dishes sourced from local farms and purveyors. “Chophouse Classics” from New York Strip $59 to Prime Tomohawk $149.
EAT: Max’s Trumbull Kitchen
Part of the “Max” culinary empire, in contemporary tavern space, the food at Max’s Trumbull Kitchen is creative and fine. Delish signatures include Rock Shrimp Fritters, Grilled Fillet Mignon with Truffled “Tater Tots” and Blue Cheese Fondue, and a delectable Chiang Mai Curried Noodles.
EAT: Salute
Let’s say it’s zero degrees out with snow in the forecast. What to order at the very popular downtown eatery, Salute? Anything pasta. Burgers and sandwiches are very good, but the Sweet Potato Ravioli and Chicken/Shrimp Piccata with onions and leeks tumbled in essence of tomato broth over linguini will warm you till the storm passes.
Hotels in Hartford and West Hartford CT
STAY: Delamar Hotel, West Hartford
With 112 rooms, the Delamar Hotel West Hartford is the largest Delamar in the 4-hotel group. (Delamars in Greenwich and Southport CT, and the Four Columns Inn in Newfane VT). It’s also one of the newest, built in a tony shopping/restaurant district from the ground up in 2017.
A valet meets you at the car, takes your bags in, and steers you to a warm greeting at reception, where you’re met with a glass of Champaign.
It’s obvious in all three Delamar Hotels, that the owner loves art. The West Hartford property has partnered with the New Britain Museum of Art, which sends over a small curated selection 2 or 3 times a year. When I stayed, an array of Ansel Adams photos were affixed to one lobby wall.
Rooms at Delamar West Hartford
Sizable rooms, in subtle shades of sand and wood, are soothing and quiet. There are plenty of outlets, a few blessedly on each nightstand. Large windows let in plenty of light.
Bathrooms feature Bulgari amenities, large Carrera marble showers and contemporary fixtures. The whole effect speaks “sanctuary:” from the elements and from crowds.
STAY: The Goodwin, Hartford
This stunning Beaux-Arts red brick hotel – The Goodwin – stands out in the center of boring downtown Hartford high-rise office buildings. In this case, looks are not deceiving. What’s inside is just as unique as the exterior.
Two Goodwin Brothers build what is now the boutique Goodwin hotel as a prestigious apartment building, near Bushnell Park, in 1881. Just how prestigious? J.P. Morgan and his ilk lived here when visiting his hometown.
The apartment house morphed into a hotel in the 1980’s. Several years ago, the Greenwich Hospitality Group purchased and renovated the interior, retaining some elements of the upscale apartments – and nodding to others with contemporary flair.
Recently, the Max Restaurant Group took over the dining space at The Goodwin. So, Bar Max now draws ’em in with great wine, cocktails and bar nibbles.
Though definitely situated in a corporate zone, The Goodwin is just a couple of blocks from the best downtown restaurants and the entrance to Bushnell Park – so at least you can take a walk and explore the best of the city.
Rooms at The Goodwin Hotel
Some rooms have carved and tiled fireplaces. In shades of gold and blue, they are decorated like high-end urban dwellings, with contemporary art, mid-century modern and Art Deco furniture, and unique architectural features. (My room – 418 – had a deep blue ceiling and khaki walls). The bed’s soft leather headboard is a work of art in itself, emblazoned with a funky indigo and gold design.
Bathrooms are stunning, with fleur-de-lis tiled floors and large circular light on the mirror. The spa-like rain shower features beveled white subway tiles and ceramic-teak floor.
Hi Susan – I’m not with CT Tourism, but you can contact them here – http://www.ctvisit.com/ and they can help you. Malerie
Is this the same Hartford where the poet Wallace Stevens lived and worked?
If so, why is he not highlighted here? Where might one get specific information
about Stevens?
HI Dorothy – yes apparently this is the city where Stevens lived and died (though not born – that’s Reading PA – another Getaway Mavens town in PA). He is not one of the hugely known poets, or at least has no homestead or sites to visit there. But I did find this which might be helpful to you: In 2009, the Hartford Friends and Enemies of Wallace Stevens completed work on the Wallace Stevens Walk, a 2.4 mile self-guided walking tour that traces the path the poet took each day to and from his Hartford home. Beginning at what was once his workplace and ending at 118 Westerly Terrace, the walk traverses the Asylum Avenue section of Hartford’s Asylum Hill and West End neighborhoods. The course of the Wallace Stevens Walk is marked by thirteen Connecticut granite stones, each uniquely carved and engraved with a stanza from “Thirteen Ways of Looking at a Blackbird,” a poem that’s among Stevens’s most well-known and frequently studied works. – hope this helps.