WHY GO: The Laurel Highlands region of Southwestern PA, about an hour southeast of Pittsburgh, is so spectacular, it proved the ideal setting for several Frank Lloyd Wright masterpieces.
This recreational region is also where you’ll find the hometown of both “Mr. Rogers” and Arnold Palmer (Latrobe), a small town Art Museum that won a major Architectural Design award, a “Truman-Show-”perfect small town, fantastic whitewater rafting, picturesque covered bridges, and one of the most unusual yet luxurious resorts so quirky, it could serve as Poster Child for the offbeat Getaway Mavens.
Encompassing 3,000 square miles of forested mountains, from the highest point in Pennsylvania – Mount Davis at 3,213 ft – to the deepest river gorge (Youghiogheny River), The Laurel Highlands, touted as “Pittsburgh’s playground,” doesn’t have to shout about its many merits. Go, and you’ll be literally and figuratively swept away.
There are dreamy escapes galore in Pennsylvania – and we spell them out in our Best Romantic Getaways in PA.
Things To Do in The Laurel Highlands PA
TOUR: Fallingwater, Mill Run
Take the “Behind the Scenes Tour” of Fallingwater, a weekend home designed by legendary architect, Frank Lloyd Wright for Pittsburgh department store magnate, Edgar Kaufman and his family. Built between 1936 and ’37, this was Wright’s mid-career masterpiece; a composition of stone, wood, and glass cantilevered over cascading water.
Deep Dive Tour of Fallingwater
Features of Fallingwater are both practical and whimsical. There’s soap-on-a-rope by the stream-fed fountain at the front door, a glass hatch in the living room that opens onto a staircase descending to the river beneath the home, couches built into the walls (“hanging in the air”) to mimic cantilevered sections of the home, and corner windows that open completely to create an illusion of outdoors inside (a Wright signature).
Edgar and Liliane Kaufman’s only son donated the home to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy in 1963, when it was opened to the public. Since then, over five million people have visited this mountain treasure.
Guests are asked not to carry any large bags onto the property. Cell phones must be turned off. Video cameras not allowed. The extended tour takes you to secondary rooms and up to the staff’s quarters. Open April-November daily, March and November weekends. $32 for Guided Architectural Tour, $85 in-depth guided tour. Check website for tour times.
TOUR: Kentuck Knob, Dunbar
Built in 1956, Kentuck Knob was one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s later commissions. It’s been open to the public only since 1996. The Hagans (of Hagan Ice-Cream fame) were friends of the Kaufman’s (who owned Fallingwater).
They wanted a similar, but smaller, home nearby. Before each project, Wright sized up his clients as “perchers” or “nesters.” Apparently, the Hagans were perchers. Up on a ridge, views from the windows and balconies are outstanding.
Bernardine Hagan lived to be a hundred years old, and spent her last 28 years at Kentuck. In 1986, Lord Peter Palumbo purchased this 2,200 sq. ft. vacation home for $600,000, and opened it to the public ten years later.
90-Minute Kentuck Knob Tour
Take the 90-minute in-depth tour that begins at a small Visitor’s Center. A van takes you uphill where you’re dropped off at the front door. Before walking inside, look for Wright’s bright red signature FLW tile.
Wright designed Kentuck Knob on a hexagonal grid, and you’ll see this distinctive form repeated throughout the home. The bright yellow dining room is drenched in sunlight through windows and hexagonal skylights. And, just steps outside, the shape repeats through overhang cutouts along the long patio.
The “nucleus of the home,” Kentuck Knob’s spotless kitchen, is a study in mid-Century modern design. It encompasses stainless steel counters, 15 foot ceiling with hexagonal skylight, cork flooring, Jetson’s era Panasonic-TV, and the original Westinghouse Oven.
Bedrooms in the home are small but ingenious, with storage cubbies and furniture that Wright designed to fit into odd angles. Don’t leave the property without a taste of Hagan ice-cream, which is still sold in the Visitor Center and still quite the treat. Check website for tour times, availability, and to sign up for tours. 
TOUR: Polymath Park, Acme
Are you inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture? Have you already seen Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob – also in the Laurel Highlands of PA? Would you actually like to spend a night with your honey (or friends/family) in a FLW designed home? Then book a tour or overnight at Polymath Park.
How did Frank Lloyd Wright envision his Usonian designs to influence American culture? Why were his Mäntylä (from Minnesota) and Duncan (Illinois) houses relocated to Polymath park? How close did Wright’s apprentice, Peter Berndston, get to his teacher’s style with his own home designs?
You’ll find the answers to these questions and more on a small-group tour of three homes: two designed by Wright, and a third one (of two) designed by Berndston – original to this property. Short answer – Polymath Park is a rescue sanctuary of sorts for Wright’s designs around the country that are slated for demolition. Each home is meticulously taken apart and rebuilt on this property after an exhaustive and exacting site orientation study.
Book ahead, tickets sell out fast. Once here, check in at Treetops – the onsite restaurant that has garnered raves from fans, and entices foodies out to the woods southeast of Pittsburgh. You’ll travel from house to house in a small bus with guide, and can wander through each home after short orientations. Suffice it to say, the interiors are larger and brighter than what they seem from the front doors.
My choice for an overnight would be the 1955 Mäntylä, a “Grand Usonian” with lots of room and original built in furniture. Check website for information about tours, stays and Treetops Restaurant reservations.
Polymath Park is one of the most quirky-romantic places to propose in PA.
VISIT: Westmoreland Museum of American Art, Greensburg
The small Westmoreland Museum of American Art, an open free to the public county art museum, dedicated to American art from 1750 to the current day, is a revelation: mostly because it takes the simple act of art appreciation and meditation seriously.
It also acknowledges that rather than being passive, the very act of gazing at a piece of art is interactive and immersive. To that end, the Westmoreland Museum is stocked with mobile chairs stamped with, “move me to your favorite spot, then sit and stare for awhile.” Plus, it’s the only museum I’ve ever been to that keeps yoga mats in its galleries – available to “relax, meditate, and see art in a different way.”
Sit and Zen Out
Why is this world-class museum, named by Architectural Digest as the Best Designed Museum in Pennsylvania, located in a small (pop 35,000) western PA town? Art lover, Mary Marchand Woods, bequeathed her entire estate in 1949 to establish the institution that would become the Art Museum ten years later. So, the grateful community has supported it ever since.
The last expansion, in 2015, added a beautiful Silver LEDE glass-enclosed entrance and gallery. Exhibits on three floors include a Tiffany window, the works of Mary Cassatt, Milton Avery, and other well-known artists.
The Romanticism movement in Europe heavily influenced American art in our country’s early years, as a painting by Benjamin West attests. The center salon-style gallery, with some of these romantic renderings, focuses on the landscapes and cityscapes of southwestern PA.
One piece – a contemporary sculpture by Vanessa German called “Parade to Baptism,” stopped me cold. A bold statement of the Black Experience in America for sure. If I’d had more time, I would have brought the sit and stare chair over to study it more carefully. Check website for hours, free.
VISIT: Latrobe PA – Mr. Rogers Hometown
Hometown of “Mr. (Fred) Rogers” and Arnold Palmer, and the Birthplace of the Banana Split in 1903, Latrobe is also where, on the grounds of Saint Vincent College, you’ll find the oldest Benedictine Monastery and the largest Benedictine Basilica in the USA.
St. Vincent College owns one of the first printings of the Canterbury Tales and, unexpectedly, serves as the Pittsburgh Steelers summer training camp. Established in the mid-1800’s, when western PA was still wilderness, some 200 Benedictine Monks still live, teach, and practice at this campus-based Archabbey Church.
VISIT: Saint Vincent College, Fred Rogers Institute Exhibit, Latrobe
It’s no surprise that in these divisive times a movie documentary about the quiet, compassionate, “Mr. Rogers” became a smash hit. Or that Tom Hanks played the man who, on 900 episodes of Mr. Roger’s Neighborhood, confronted the ills of our time with kindness and love.
An ordained minister, Fred Rogers considered his television show to be his ministry, leading one reviewer to write, “Mr. Rogers Neighborhood makes us feel safe, cared for, and valued. Wherever Mr. Rogers is, so is sanctuary.”
The Fred Rogers Institute was the prime resource for both the Documentary, and the major motion picture. (Yes, Tom Hanks spent time here doing research). It also features a small museum that displays Rogers’ four different colored sweaters – knitted by his mother. (Rogers alternated these sweaters every day and couldn’t differentiate due to his red-green color blindness).
You’ll also see puppets used on the show, plenty of photos, and quotes by Rogers and others about him. Fred Rogers died in 2003. He was, as many said, “an island of peace.” We sure could use him now.
McCarl Coverlet Collection
Downstairs, you’ll find the McCarl Coverlet Collection – a gallery showcasing stunning examples of a bygone American tradition. Rogers and Coverlet exhibits open Mon-Fri 8:30-4:30, donations accepted.
St. Vincent Basilica on campus of St. Vincent College
Golf fans most likely saw the interior of St. Vincent Basilica, as it hosted the funeral of golf-great, Arnold Palmer (who was not Catholic, but had strong connections here), which was broadcast on sports tv shows. (Palmer was cremated, and his ashes spread over his golf cart). The Church is stunning, and a worthwhile stop while on campus.
DO: Whitewater Rafting/ Hiking/Biking – Ohiopyle State Park
Take a wild 5-hour trip on the Lower Youghiogheny River (affectionately known as the Yough) – a 7.5-mile stretch of Class III and IV whitewater or the calmer Middle Yough through Wilderness Voyageurs. Ohiopyle State Park also features 79 miles of the most amazing laurel highlands hiking trails, as well as camping, fishing, and hunting opportunities.
The 150-mile Great Allegheny Passage bike trail runs from downtown Pittsburgh to Cumberland Maryland, right through Ohiopyle, with some of the most magnificent vistas on the trail.
TOUR: Ligonier PA
It’s a tiny town that puts one in mind of the hit movies, The Truman Show or Pleasantville. Downtown Ligonier – a “Brigadoon” like square – is as Hollywood-perfect as a downtown gets. Locals walk their dogs, stop and chat, window shop outside family owned stores. It’s achingly old school, yet what we all yearn for deep down.
TOUR: Fort Ligonier
Interestingly, Ligonier, at the westernmost boundary of the British Colonies, was also the site of one of our country’s forgotten conflicts: the French and Indian War. Fort Ligonier was one of many forts built every fifty miles or so by the British in the 1750’s, as they expanded westward.
In 1758, French troops and Native Americans on the frontier attacked Fort Ligonier, as the French-controlled colonies pushed eastward. In 1753, a 21 year old George Washington led the Brits against the French at Fort Necessity. Four years later, he was posted at Fort Ligonier, and stayed only two weeks.
What now stands as the fort is a reconstruction, built on Fort Ligonier’s original footprint. The highly engaging Visitor’s Center houses a comprehensive collection of 1758 artifacts, including several invaluable objects.
Documents in Washington’s own hand reflect on his time in Western PA. There’s a pair of his engraved saddle pistols – a gift from Marquis de Lafayette; a portrait of Washington by Rembrandt Peale, depicting the young Virginian as he might have looked in 1758; and plenty of other items uncovered here during an archeological dig.
It is worth spending a few hours delving into events surrounding this precursor to our Revolutionary War. Check website for current dates and hours open, and admission fees.
VISIT: Greendance Winery, Mt. Pleasant
Not just a winery, the Greendance Winery complex includes gardens, apple orchards, a market, bakery, penned llamas and goats, and guinea hens running around. No surprise it’s also a hot wedding venue.
Sweet wines are popular here – the Blush most of all. You can sample the first three for free. I tried the interesting Rhubarb Wine, which might sound weird, but actually tasted subtly sweet and surprisingly good.
Even if you’re not a wine drinker, come here for the fresh-baked homemade pies. I got a slice of Blueberry Pie – made with berries grown right on the premises – and I can honestly say that it was one of the Top 5 pies I’ve ever had in my life. Kudos to the bakers!
WINERY: Glades Park Winery, Somerset
Glades Park Winery is big into sweet wines and slushies in summer. Those “adult” frozen drinks, or a bottle of the popular “Black and Blue” (made with blackberries and blueberries – no grapes) are the perfect accompaniment to gazing at the hillside vineyard and PA landscape from an Adirondack chair. Visit on Saturdays when there’s live entertainment, or any other time just to chill out.
BREWERY: Helltown Brewing, Mt. Pleasant
There’s some dispute over why Mt. Pleasant is called “Helltown.” It might have something to do with its zip code – 15666. Or possibly for the 120 coke ovens nearby, that, when in full operation in the early 1900’s, turned the sky red and covered the town in soot. Either way, it’s a hell of come on. At Helltown Brewing, try the “Buffy” (New England IPA), “Slayable”, or “Hell’s Delight.”
DO: Laurel Highlands PA Pour Tour
All of the above wineries and breweries are on the Laurel Highlands Pour Tour 2.0. Visit the roughly 40 spirit makers, get your Passport stamped, and
STOP: Big Mac Museum/North Huntingdon Township
Yes, there is a Big Mac Museum. It’s on your way from the Laurel Highlands to Pittsburgh just off Route 30 in North Huntington, next door to a Bob Evans and Auto Supermarket. This random, still operating McDonalds, is a paean to Jim Delligatti, who came up with “two all beef patties special sauce pickles onions on a sesame seed bun,” in 1963. After many decades, the Big Mac might still be “the most popular sandwich on the planet” and a McDonald’s staple.
DRIVE: Flight 93 National Memorial, Somerset County
The Tower of Voices at the Flight 93 National Memorial – a 30 minute drive from Ligonier PA – can be seen from afar. But, come near, and you’ll hear 41 individual chimes representing the 41 lives lost on September 11 2001. We covered the Memorial in this Bedford PA post.
Best Restaurants in the Laurel Highlands PA
EAT: Aqueous @ Falling Rock at Nemacolin Resort
Prices at this mid-Century Modern designed restaurant are what you’d expect for one of Pennsylvania’s finest restaurants. Dishes, from Fish and Chips to Beef Fillet, are exemplary. Cuisine at Aqueous certainly rises to the level of its Five Diamond rated host hotel.
EAT: Lautrec @ Chateau Lafayette at Nemacolin Resort
Dine on contemporary, lighter French cuisine beneath the lithographs of famous French artists including Henri Toulouse Lautrec. Exceptional dining all around, Lautrec has been awarded Five Stars by both Forbes and AAA. For now, seating is limited to guests of Nemacolin only.
EAT/LIGONIER: The Kitchen on Main
Towns in the Laurel Highlands are attracting foodies and the chefs who cater to them. Exhibit A in Ligonier – Chef Josh Fryer’s open-kitchen upscale “diner,” named, appropriately enough – The Kitchen on Main.
The tin ceiling was preserved in this former grocery store, lending a Victorian-mod air to the place. Sit at the counter and watch the action. And then order the marvelous signature dishes from chefs bustling in-plain-view.
EAT: Out of the Fire, Donegal
This highly rated Out of the Fire restaurant is known for a great cross section of food, its mushroom soup, and for its signature smoked salmon platter that just might give some NYC delis a run for their money.
BAKERY: Country Pie Shoppe, Donegal
Fans of old fashioned bakeries come in for pies, cakes, and cookies. Nothing fancy, but just the thing for a sweet bite.
EAT: Locals Recommend
Ohiopyle Bakery – near the State Park for incredible baked goods. Chef Dato’s Table in Latrobe for a melange of cuisines. Treetops Restaurant at Frank Lloyd Wright Polymath Park in Acme.
Where to Stay in the Laurel Highlands
STAY/TOUR: Nemacolin
This luxury resort is a Maven Favorite, that warrants its own review.
STAY/SKI/PLAY: Seven Springs Mountain Resort
Another hotel attraction that warrants a stand alone review.
STAY/LIGONIER: Thistledown at Seger House
Rooms in this in-town brick mansion, Thistledown at Seger House, are surprisingly attractive – renovated in craftsman-20’s style with modern twist. Two blocks from the square, otherwise known as the “Diamond,” Thistledown used to be a surgical outpatient center. Don’t judge the place by the lobby alone – which is marked by a yarn shop and cute coffee shop. The beauty and luxury can be found in the rooms upstairs – styled in a mesh of 20’s and Craftsmen furniture and pallet.
Tidy rooms in rusts and off-whites feature contemporary floral-embossed bedding, rug-covered hardwood floors, stone gas fireplaces, mirrored bed-tables and lamps. It’s certainly not your grandma’s doily B&B. Baths vary in size, but can be small. Even the smallest ones, though, gleam in white subway tile walls and octagonal mosaic floor, with glass rain shower. Adorable. Parking and wi-fi are free. And that little café will serve you breakfast in the morning – complimentary. Check website for rates.
Frank Lloyd Wright Road Trip From Laurel Highlands PA
“The Great Wright Road Trip”
A consortium of Frank Lloyd Wright sites located in Western Pennsylvania and Western New York – just a four hour drive from each other, have joined forces, launching a road trip that illustrates the epic arc and grandeur of the legendary architect’s career.
Beginning with his groundbreaking Prairie Style of the early 1900s through his visionary development of organic architecture in the 1930s at Fallingwater, just recently inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and concluding with one of his most breathtaking Usonian houses of the late 1950s, the Great Wright Road Trip gathers together one of the most representative and inspiring collections of his work in the United States.
Visitors can also experience the working environment where Wright created many of his late-career designs — the architect’s San Francisco office has been reassembled and installed as a permanent exhibit at the Erie County Historical Society-Hagen History Center in Erie, Pennsylvania.
The partnering sites include:
Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands
Fallingwater (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Mill Run, PA
Kentuck Knob, Chalk Hill, PA
Polymath Park, Acme, PA
Erie PA
Hagen History Center, Erie, PA
New York
Blue Sky Mausoleum, Buffalo, NY
The Filling Station at the Pierce Arrow Museum, Buffalo, NY
Fontana Rowing Boathouse, Buffalo, NY
Graycliff, Derby, NY
Martin House, Buffalo, NY
