WHY GO: Marblehead, Massachusetts, 30 minutes north of Boston, is one of those New England seafaring towns that locals like to keep secret. Deeply hued Colonial-era homes, most built in the early 1700’s – 1800’s, line narrow streets filled with shops, restaurants, and historic sites.
You don’t come to Marblehead MA wearing your Channel or Gucci – or to be fabulous or show-offy. You visit here to walk the historic streets, sit on one of the gazillion benches that pepper parks and cemeteries, duck into Maddie’s Sail Loft for a drink to get to know the locals, see the original Spirit of ’76 painting, jump aboard one of the 2,000 moored boats that cram Marblehead Harbor, and converse with shopkeepers: one, at least, who’s been a steady presence in town for 45 years.
In other words, you come to Marblehead MA to chill.
So, get out on the water or experience the town at rest in winter, when it almost feels like the fishing village of yore.
Or, perhaps, watch a movie being filmed. Adam Sandler “loves Marblehead” and shot Hubie Halloween and Grown Ups 2 here. Many scenes in the first 1993 Hocus Pocus also took place here, as this “sailing capital” town borders Salem MA.
With all of these boats, Marblehead wakes up in late Spring. So, if you’re looking for a quiet, romantic getaway, best to visit January – March when shops and restaurants are still open, but the crowds are gone.
Looking for more weekend getaway ideas? Check out our round-up of romantic getaways in Massachusetts.
Things To Do in Marblehead MA
DO: Sit on a Park Bench – They Are Everywhere
I have to say that when I first started exploring the sites around Marblehead, I was struck by the sheer number of park benches in every nook and cranny, it seemed. In some cases arrayed like church pews, benches can be found in town parks, between private homes, on the grounds of a historic fort, and yes, in cemeteries. Most overlook Marblehead Harbor, Salem Harbor, or Massachusetts Bay.
They were so ubiquitous, in fact, I jotted in my notebook, “The town of Marblehead must have found quite the deal on park benches – they are everywhere, and not just one or two in each place.”
Later, I discovered that there was another, more poignant reason for the ubiquity of these seats. They are actually memorials: Each one purchased in memory (or in honor) of a beloved friend or family member.
That put a whole new spin on the way I saw Marblehead MA. Rather than a transient resort for visitors, this town is suffused with all aspects of permanence: both in its buildings and people. You don’t buy a bench for a loved one if you plan to skedaddle out of Dodge.
DO: Walk Around
I’m not being sarcastic. This is the first thing locals tell visitors to do. The historic part of Marblehead is easy to navigate on foot, and for those who just want to just browse, it’s incredibly rewarding to walk along Washington Street.
Downtown is dense with well-tended homes – each with a plaque emblazoned with the name of the original owner, the owner’s occupation, and year it was built. Some date back to the late 1600s. Most were the homes of shipwrights, ship’s joiners, fishermen, merchants, and traders. In other words, the men and women who built this town.
Stroll up to Fort Sewell, over to the Old Burial Ground, up to Abbot Hall, and then spend some time in the shops. Don’t miss the following sites:
VISIT: Abbot Hall – the Maritime Museum, and The Spirit of ‘76
Abbot Hall, the beautiful brick building on the hill, serves as Marblehead’s Town Hall. (And also, as the tallest building in town, a nautical navigational landmark). So, while walking in, you might encounter a town resident registering to vote or requesting public records, or something.
Interestingly, this is also where you’ll find one of America’s most iconic paintings: the original Spirit of ’76, painted by Archibald Willard in 1876 for the American Revolutionary War Centennial. Yep – it hangs, rather informally, on a wall in the large Selectman’s Room. The first room is on the left.
Other paintings and documents are on display in several galleries and hallways throughout the building. These celebrate Marblehead MA as “The Birthplace of the Continental Navy.” (Not to be confused with the U.S. Navy).
Back in the 1770s, when war brought the British fleet to American shores, who first stepped up to meet the English ships on their watery battlefield? Why, the fishermen of Marblehead! These men, who knew their way around the waters of the Massachusetts Bay – not to mention their way around boats – served as our original Naval forces.
Citizens of Marblehead were also praised for saving the USS Constitution (aka, Old Ironsides), during the War of 1812. When British ships gave chase in an attempt to bomb the frigate into oblivion, she was able to find a safe harbor at Fort Sewell. Local Naval forces were at the ready with guns and cannons to repel the enemy warships.
(FYI – the USS Constitution, built in 1797, remains the world’s oldest ship still afloat. Old Ironsides is so indestructible, in fact, it is still a fully commissioned Naval ship. You’ll find her at the Charleston Navy Yard, just 17 miles away in Boston.)
VISIT: Marblehead Museum
The Marblehead Museum, open seasonally, consists of three sites within the Historic District: The Jeremiah Lee Mansion, the J.O.J. Frost Gallery, and the Grand Army of the Republic & Civil War Museum.
Jeremiah Lee Mansion
One of the country’s finest examples of pre-Revolutionary War Georgian-style architecture, the Jeremiah Lee Mansion, built in 1768 for the wealthiest merchant in Colonial Massachusetts, appears to be built of stone. However, the exterior is actually wood, scored and squared off to look like hewed granite.
The interior is equally impressive – and can be seen on tours during warmer months when all three historic homes of the Marblehead Museum are open.
J.O.J. Frost Gallery
J.O.J. Frost was the male version of Grandma Moses. “Grandpa Frost,” if you will. In 1922, at age 70, Frost started painting the folk art that now hangs in the main building of the Marblehead Museum.
Grand Army of the Republic & Civil War Museum
See Civil War-era memorabilia in the very room where members of the post-war veteran’s organization (Grand Army of the Republic) held their meetings in Marblehead MA.
GO: Fort Sewall
Best known for providing a safe harbor to the USS Constitution during the War of 1812, Fort Sewall, a coastal fortification during America’s Revolutionary War, is now an optimal spot to watch the comings and goings of boats in Marblehead Harbor.
Stocked with plenty of benches (of course), you can sit for hours, or join dog walkers on their daily constitutionals. In the midst of private homes (you have to park your car down the hill and walk up), this is not a managed site. It’s more like a town park with half-buried bunker remnants.
GO: Old Burial Hill Cemetery
Among the approximately 650 headstones on Old Burial Hill, dating from the late 1600s through the early 1800s is one for Hannah Nowland, who died at age 21. Her epitaph speaks to the reality of the day – and a none-too-cheerful sentiment for the still-living.
All you that doth my grave pass by,
As you are now so once was I,
As I am now so you must be,
Prepare for death & follow me.
The cemetery, founded in 1638, is replete with the graves of babies, a couple of 90-something-year-olds, and many in between. Ornately carved headstones spool out from the top of the hill to the road – and to Redd’s Pond on the far side. If it looks familiar, you’re not imagining things. A few scenes from the first Hocus Pocus were shot here.
SHOP: Bus Stop
By early 2023, Kathy Bruin had owned and operated her women’s clothing and accessories shop, Bus Stop, for over 45 years. And, the smiling, pixie-ish woman shows no sign of stopping. If you wish to see Marblehead’s history personified, stop in to say hi to Kathy, who is a fount of knowledge about the town.
Bruin has a keen eye for unusual, colorful apparel, handbags, scarves, and funky fashion jewelry. No wonder she’s stayed in business successfully for so long.
In the center of Marblehead’s Historic District, look for the façade of the Bus Stop in the original Hocus Pocus movie. It’s also been featured repeatedly in newspapers near and far.
SHOP: Up and Down Historic District Streets
You can spend the good part of a day shelling out your vacation moola at Marblehead’s shops and art galleries. Some of our favorites include Mud Puddle Toys, Hip Baby Gear, Even Keel Women’s Shop, and MacRae’s Sustainable Goods.
GO: Devereux Beach
Devereux Beach offers a scenic coastal retreat with its expansive sandy shoreline, gentle waves, and breathtaking views of the Atlantic, making it a favorite spot for relaxation and seaside activities.
DRIVE: Marblehead Neck Attractions
Marblehead MA is shaped like a mitten – with the thumb – the neck – sticking out into Massachusetts Bay. The cove between Marblehead Neck and the mainland forms the protective Marblehead Harbor, where, in season you’ll find nearly 2,000 boats swinging at moorings. (In winter, you’ll just see empty mooring buoys polka-dotting the water).
Take a quick drive around the perimeter of the Neck and stop in these three parks:
Chandler Hovey Park aka Lighthouse Point
Of course there are masses of park benches at Chandler Hovey Park! At the top of Marblehead Neck, you can sit and be mesmerized by the Bay from under a covered pavilion, or Marblehead’s downtown across the harbor on the other side.
The Marblehead Lighthouse is the only one in New England built in this weird style. Like a caged utility pole – it suggests more of an industrial smokestack than a charming Salt Shaker. But it is fascinating to see up close.
Castle Rock
The public access path to this natural wonder is between two mansions that overlook the water. Just park on the street, and stay on the trail that leads to one enormous wave-beaten rock outcropping. And yes, you’ll find benches here, too.
There are steps to the water (if you dare), and great views of the craggy coastline. Stay as long as you like. Seemingly, there’s no one (except, perhaps, the homeowners) keeping track.
Marblehead Neck Wildlife Sanctuary
Although this 16-acre Mass Audubon sanctuary isn’t on the water, its .85-mile path places you inside a wild songbird paradise – especially during migration season. (Dogs are not permitted due to the prevalence of these birds).
Best Restaurants in Marblehead MA
EAT: The Landing
In business since the 1970s – and a local favorite ever since – The Landing got an infusion of gourmet culinary cred a couple of years ago when Alex Pineda took over the kitchen. Chef Pineda is the son of Boston Celebrity Chef, Lydia Shire, so, it’s no surprise that The Landing has been landing on Boston Magazine’s “Best of Boston” list since he arrived.
Even though this seafood place is right on the waterfront (a 4 minute walk from Harbor Light Inn), I was partial to the pressed Brick Chicken and killer Parm Fries. However, I heard raves, all over town, about the “lemongrass-curried” mussels. So, if you’re into that specific shellfish, be sure to order those.
Thankfully, most Marblehead restaurants cater to residents. So, The Landing is open year-round. As are the following eateries.
DRINK/EAT: Maddies Sail Loft
Nothing fancy. Just a local dive, a sailor’s bar. The Marblehead “Cheers.” Maddie’s has been a local tradition, a town icon, and the best place to get “really strong” drinks since 1946.
EAT: The Barnacle
Another hangout on the waterfront, locals recommend the steamers and onion rings at the more casual Barnacle.
EAT: Beacon Bar and Restaurant
If you’re looking for a fun evening, with live entertainment, good food, and a view of the harbor, plan a meal at The Beacon Restaurant. Owner, Johnny Ray, an entertainer himself, has been known to get up and sing with the band.
EAT: Locals Recommend
Locals love Sea Salt for upscale American, Soall Viet Kitchen for Vietnamese food, and Eat Well Kitchen for healthy food, sandwiches, and smoothies.
Marblehead MA Hotels
STAY: Harbor Light Inn
Even the name promotes a feeling of tranquility and comfort: Harbor Light Inn.
A light in the storm. A safe harbor.
There is no better – or other – place to stay in Marblehead’s historic district. So, it is a Maven Favorite with its own Harbor Light Inn Marblehead Review feature page.
STAY: Other Hotels and B&B’s
Both the in-town Brimblecomb Hill B&B and Seagull Inn B&B out on Marblehead Neck each have three guest rooms. The relatively new Hotel Marblehead, about a mile from the Historic District, features 10 nautical, mid-century modern rooms in an Empire-style home.
