PA Wilds: Oil, Opera, and Opulence in the Allegheny National Forest

Time for some restorative Forest Bathing? Visitors to the 514,000 acre Allegheny National Forest Region – also known as the PA Wilds – generally come for a breath of fresh air. Located in Northwestern Pennsylvania, and extending just over the border into New York, the ANF might take awhile to get to, but, as they say, “getting there is half the fun,” and  “nothing worthwhile is ever easy.” 

Rivaling the more famous Adirondacks in New York, the Allegheny National Forest, a bonanza of public lands, is a stunning, overlooked area of our country. But there are other reasons to visit the PA Wilds aside from camping and recreation.

This region is home to the Victorian-age engineering marvel-destroyed-by-nature Kinzua Bridge, the Zippo Lighter Museum, what’s left of Bradford’s “Billion Dollar Oil Field,” breweries, distilleries, a Marilyn Horne Museum, and several luxury inns. Although the Pennsylvania Wilds are on few tourist “hot spot” lists, the Getaway Mavens are here to tell you it should be.

Things to Do in Kane PA And Nearby In PA Wilds

OUTDOOR RECREATION: Allegheny National Forest

There are 43 recreational area within Allegheny National Forest, including 14 campgrounds – from primitive to full service areas with restaurants, bathrooms, boat rentals, and electrical hookups. Some sites are strictly canoe-kayak launch ramps, overlooks, snowmobile and cross country ski routes, biking trails, or ranger stations. Others are well-run State Parks and features (e.g. Kinzua Bridge, the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, Kinzua Dam, Pine Creek Gorge, Allegheny Reservoir).

TOUR: Kinzua Bridge State Park, Mt. Jewett

So much has happened since we last wrote about the Kinzua Bridge SP in 2012. Since then, the Skywalk – jutting out over the Kinzua Gorge/Valley floor – was built, allowing you to see the twisted metal from directly above.

Also added: an 11,000 sq ft. Visitor’s Center and interactive Museum that tells the story of the construction of the bridge and its twisted end. As soon as you walk in, the view of the skywalk out of floor to ceiling picture windows will take your breath away (or, at least cause you to whisper, “woah!”). While there, check out the PA Wilds Conservation Shop – where you can purchase artisanal food and crafts from the area.

In the “can do spirit of the Gilded Age,” Octave Chinute (who went on to work with the Wright Brothers) engineered the Kinzua Bridge in 1882 to transport newly discovered coal to southern locales.

Three hundred feet off the valley floor, the Kinzua Bridge was the highest point on the profitable New York–Erie Railroad line. As such, it was one of America’s most popular tourist attractions when first opened. Swarms of long-skirted women and bowler-hatted men made the trek to see “The Eighth Wonder of the World.”

In 1900, engineers replaced the iron towers and latticework with much stronger steel. But even that strength couldn’t hold new and heavier trains, and in 1959, the bridge was closed to freight.

In 1963, this engineering marvel of the 19^th century became a State Park. And in 1986, tourists could still make the harrowing crossing via popular and nostalgic steam train excursions.

But, by 2002, inspectors halted all bridge traffic, as the trestle was found to have major flaws. This became horribly apparent when, on July 21, 2003, a freak F1 tornado tore through the valley, taking out the bridge’s middle section. Eleven towers were upended, mangled, and tossed to the ground.

There are now several spots from which you can get excellent photos.

One – Walk 600 feet into the gorge on “Tracks Across the Sky” – the Kinzua Skywalk – and stare into the valley from what’s left of the bridge. The uncanny sight of these deformed and twisted steel bones on the valley floor rivals any Christo art installation. From here, you’ll also get unparalleled views of the forested Allegheny Plateau on all sides. 

Two – follow signs to the “Picture Platform” that places you under the bridge for a view through the struts, similar to what visitors saw before the bridge collapse.

And three – take a marked hiking trail down to the valley floor, to see the abutments, towers, spans (that remain) and other structure and ruins from below. Please wear proper hiking shoes, as this trail is considered “difficult” and gets quite steep.

BIKE TRAIL: Mount Jewett to Kinzua Bridge to Lantz Corner Rail Trail

This flat and enjoyable 7.8 mile Mount Jewett to Kinzua Bridge to Lantz Corner Trail is one way to get to Kinzua Bridge State Park – and a very popular one at that. Recognized by the PA Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources as the 2023 Trail of the year – it runs through forest, fields, and the tiny town of Mount Jewett. A segment of the 74 mile Knox & Kane Rail Trail, it’s rendered this part of Pennsylvania one of the best for cyclists.

VISIT: McCleery Discovery Center and Kane Historic Preservation Society at the Historic Kane Depot

The sculpture of a Great Plains Buffalo Wolf outside of the Historic Kane Depot Museum is no ordinary piece of art. Made from 25,000 hand-cut nails, it’s a playful image of the animal that put this western PA town on the map.

The rescue of these wolves from extinction, told in pictures, pelts, and a rare 1930’s video made by Fox Movietown, holds the interest of many a visitor to this modest museum, as it is both a story about this quirky town and the people who lived here.

In short, in 1921, Dr. Edward McCleery heard that the authorities in Western USA planned to wipe out all the wolves that were killing cattle ranch livestock: and he was moved to save them.

Somehow, McCleery managed to find four Great Plains Buffalo Wolf pups from Montana, and one from Wyoming – representing the last of this breed –  and had them shipped by train and delivered to what was then the baggage area –  exactly where you stand while perusing the small but enticing exhibit.

McCleery, who is now recognized as the “Father of the American Endangered Species Movement” raised and bred the wolf pups in his backyard off of Route 6 in Kane. By 1961, the five had grown to a couple of hundred. The now elderly McCleery sold the pack to Jack Lynch, who took the wolves back out West in 1972.  (There are now only about 20 left in Montana – called McCleery Wolves).

In addition to the Wolf Exhibit, there’s plenty of information about Thomas Kane – the town’s namesake – in the Kane Historic Preservation Society’s front room of the Depot.

An acclaimed Civil War General who befriended and protected Brigham Young and his Mormon community, Thomas and his very accomplished wife, Elizabeth (who graduated Medical School in 1883, was a professional photographer and writer, and had her home – now the Kane Manor Inn built in 1896) accompanied the Mormons to Utah.

There’s also an exhibit of toys from the Holgate Toy Company, made in Kane PA. Anyone who has ever stacked rings on the wooden Rocky Color Cone (co-opted in plastic by Fisher-Price) has owned or played with a Holgate toy.

Care to be grossed out? Ask to see the photo of the son of the town’s namesake, Dr. Evan O’Neill Kane, performing hernia surgery on himself in 1932 to prove the effectiveness of local anesthesia.

TASTE/LEARN: Wilds Sonshine Factory, Kane

The Wilds Sonshine Factory makes specialty spirits strictly from sunflower seeds. So, it’s like Moonshine – but it’s “Sun” shine. Get it? (The name “Sunshine Factory” was already trademarked, so owners decided on this alternate spelling).

There are two reasons to come here. One is for the booze. The other is for the adjacent Agricultural Education Center, a hands on museum geared toward both children and job hunters looking for a career in local natural resources: forest management, water conservation, and agricultural production.

Four outdoor silos hold corn, soybean, rye, and sunflower seeds. While Sonshine itself is made from sunflower seeds only, other types of spirits, like whisky, will incorporate other grains. 

Have a taste of the original Sonshine – or the infused Pink Lemonade, Black Cherry, or Blue Raspberry versions – at the 43 ½ foot long PA Hemlock bar – the longest bar on record made out of one piece of wood. You can order cool cocktails like Dracula’s Kiss (Black Cherry Sonshine, grenadine, and Coke) and more. It makes for a great date nigh

TOUR: Woodside Oils, Kane

Royce Novosel-Johnson, 4^th generation of a Kane PA Logging/Timber Company family, returned home from Dartmouth University with plenty of ideas to develop and improve the local economy. One was opening a brewery (see Logyard Brewing under where to eat and drink below). The other – quite different – is a win-win for the area.

Novosel-Johnson’s new business, Woodside Oils, makes good use of “nuisance trees” on family land that would ordinarily be worthless.

It seems that Black Birch tree lumber isn’t good for building – but the pure, essential oil from its bark is worth its weight in gold.

The sweet, wintergreen scented oil has been found to help heal burns and relieve joint and muscle pain – and, as of now, Woodside Oils in Kane PA is the only operation in the world that steam-distills and extracts unadulterated, pure Birch Essential Oil.

Partnering with doTERRA Company (a Utah-based essential oil marketing and packaging company), Woodside Oils will be sold via three million individual distributors. So, there’s plenty of upside to this business.

Plus –  creating the final product is a clean, non-polluting, closed loop. Problem trees are cut down, bark stripped, no chemicals are used in the steam distilling process, and after extraction, the bark is returned to nature as mulch.  

Soon, Novosel-Johnson looks forward to providing tours, and sending guests out into the woods with GPS coordinates to experience and “touch a Black Birch Tree.”

SHOP: Bell’s Meats and Poultry, Kane

I know it’s weird to promote a meat and poultry store, but Bell’s Meats and Poultry has been a Kane PA icon for over 50 years. Because you can find things here you won’t see anywhere else, its not surprising that a good percentage of customers are from out of town.

You’ll find a mega selection of spices, canned goods, and “smokies” – smoked meet sticks – along with over 40 different kinds of sausages, prepped kabobs, pork pinwheels, the Signature Chicken Grillers (chicken breast, ham, Swiss cheese, and sausage rolled up and topped with bacon), and so much more.

Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s a hoot to wander the aisles.

Things to Do in Bradford PA And Nearby PA Wilds

VISIT: Marilyn Horne Museum, Bradford

Opera Superstar, Marilyn Horne, was born, and raised until age 11, in Bradford PA. Still alive in her 80’s and living in California, Horne handed over a trove of papers, handwritten scores, costumes, photos, and recordings to the University of Pittsburgh – Bradford.

This was the perfect move on her part: because UP-B has curated the marvelously engaging and lovely-to-look-at 3,400 sq. ft. Marilyn Horne Museum in downtown Bradford that even those who “hate opera” can enjoy.

Horne was born in 1934, and moved with her family to Long Beach CA 11 years later. Her career took off when she met composer, Igor Stravinski, who steered her from Broadway ambitions to Opera.

The museum offers an over 40-year timeline of her career highlights from Europe to the USA. There are 19 interactive exhibits, including headphones at each video station, so you can listen to and watch her perform.

Stare in awe at fantastical costumes, (some recreations) from her performances, and musical scores on which she wrote shorthand notes (some really funny. Ask a guide to show you).

Horne performed for four US Presidents, and sang at Bill Clinton’s inauguration; dubbed several movies; appeared on the Carol Burnett Show, Sesame Street, and the Tonight Show With Johnny Carson; and earned 15 Grammy Award Nominations and four Grammys.

In later years, Horne became a teacher and philanthropist. Stay to shop at the unique gift shop, and for a bite at the museum café. The Marilyn Horne Museum is a treasure in the center of downtown Bradford, and not to be missed. Free admission.

VISIt: Zippo/Case Museum, Bradford

Feel patriotic while satisfying your fascination with the iconic made-in-America lighter company, Zippo, by visiting the Zippo/Case Factory Museum and Shop in Bradford PA. A terrific nine-minute orientation film recounts the story of the aptly named George Blaisdell, who modified an Austrian lighter design and named it after the zippy sound of the “zipper” in 1932.

The “Windproof – It works or we fix it free” Zippo gained fame as a fashion accessory and gift item in the mid 1940’s when WWII soldiers returned with their field-tested steel-cased versions. The museum showcases Zippo art, artifacts, dioramas, and of course sells every single style of Zippo lighter and Case Knife. Admission is free.

VISIT: Penn Brad Oil Museum, Bradford

And you thought only Texas and Oklahoma had oil and gas fields. Well, the first US oil well was actually drilled in 1859, about 80 miles from Bradford in Titusville, launching a black-gold-rush out to these mid-PA hills. And you can learn all about it at the Penn-Brad Oil Museum. 

Between 1871 and the 1920’s, over 90,000 wells were bored in Bradford PA – it was our country’s first “billion dollar oil field.” Back then, 82% of the world’s oil emerged from deep within Pennsylvania earth.

A couple of oil companies still operate in Bradford. Kendall Refining Co, now American Refining Group which makes Brad Penn Racing Oil, was established in 1881 and is the longest continuously operating refinery in North America. And Emery Oil Co. (now Minard Run Oil Co.) is still run by the great-grandson of founder Lewis Emery.

Lewis was a hard-nosed adversary of Standard Oil’s John D. Rockefeller. When Rockefeller refused to transport Emery Oil on his railroad, Emery sledded oil pipes up and over the Allegheny Mountains in snowy winter to build a pipeline from Bradford to Williamsport, obliterating Standard Oil’s monopoly, but garnering an enemy for life.

Oil has been in use since ancient times – Babylonians dipped torches in the crude stuff that seeped out of the ground. But it wasn’t until the growth of the auto-industry at the turn of last century, creating a use for vast amount of oil in the demand for gasoline, that the business became profitable.

This compact, smart, engaging museum explains the evolution of the oil industry both worldwide and in this little pocket of the country. Guides demonstrate various oil rig machinery – such as the 114 year old “Half Breed Engine,” that, when turned on, creates a barking sound  (thus called “The Barker”).

PHOTO OP: Oldest Operating Oil Well in Bradford at McDonalds Drive Thru

After leaving the museum, be sure to see the oldest still producing oil well in Bradford PA, owned by Cline Oil. Pumping out roughly 3/4’s of a barrel per day, it was first opened in 1870! I guarantee, it’s the only operating oil well at a McDonald’s Drive-Thru.

Best Places to Eat and Drink in the PA Wilds

EAT/DRINK: Logyard Brewing, Kane

Royce Novosel-Johnson returned home, after five years in Medical Sales in Boston and DC (post-Dartmouth U), full of ideas to improve the local economy and drive tourism. Nothing draws tourists and townies together like a brewery, and so, he and his partners opened Logyard Brewing in 2018.

It has since served it purpose as an economic driver to the area.

The storage and distribution area of Logyard Brewing is housed in a huge building that once bulged with equipment owned by Novosel Logging – the family business going back three generations. On 12 acres (formerly called “the logyard”), there’s plenty of room for expansion.

Old family photos of men in flannel shirts wielding handsaws line the walls of the Logyard Brewing tasting room and event space – part of which used to be an 1800’s pharmacy and then a Radio Shack.  The family timber biz shows up in everything from the Bucking Birch Beer (made from Birch tree bark) to all of the gorgeous tables, chairs, bar, and floor (made from family wood).  

In the taproom, sip on a pint of excellent “Misery Whip” – referring to the heavy two-man cross-cut saw – or Lumber Jack ‘O Lantern, made from real PA pumpkins, while checking out the pictures, tools, and historic artifacts throughout the place.

Logyard Brewing has had some illustrious moments. In 2021, it was the “Official Beer of Groundhog Day.” Zippo created a Logyard lighter. And, by dint of Novosel-Johnson’s friendship with a guy who makes movies, Logyard became the “Official Beer of Filmmakers.”

Come for a taste and tour – or for a meal and pint. Depending on the day, there’s live music, Korean Steak Tacos, Soft Pretzels – and 6-8 small bite offerings. It’s a lively place, and has certainly made an economic impact on the town of Kane – paving the way for others who are also making a difference here.

EAT: Table 105, Kane

The semi-casual, Western décor (animal skulls, reclaimed barnwood), Table 105 brought fine, innovative, sustainably sourced farm-to-table dining to downtown Kane.

Owned by Riki Tanaka (who also owns the Twisted Vine winery next door), Table 105 tweaks dishes, like the simple BLT, by using toasted Naan bread rather than plain white. You’ll also find excellent Chicken Curry, Dry Aged steaks, and Shrimp & Grits in this cool spot. 

SIP/EAT: Flickerwood Wine Cellars, Kane

Started 20 years ago by former US Forest Service employee Ron Zampona and his outgoing wife, Sue, and now run by their kids, Tammy Liberato, Julie Wehner and Rick Zampogna, Flickerwood Wine Cellars produces 20 varieties of vino, and shines when it comes to dessert and sweeter wines.

Known as “The Wine that Rocks,” (because they are a family of musicians), a stopover here makes for a great break in the PA Wilds. Come to sample the goods and grab a bite in the appealing tasting room. Pasta Night Thursdays and Pre-Game Fridays are particularly popular.

EAT/KANE: Texas Hot Lunch

Down some Texas Hots at Texas Hot Lunch. Looking very much the dive, locals sing the praises of, and expats return for, that little hot dog—a zesty mini sausage smothered in spicy signature sauce. Bet you can’t eat just one.

If hotdogs aren’t your thing, Texas Hot Lunch also offers many other Greek inspired items, including “Greek Rice Bowls” – layered with marinated meat or chicken, onions, tomatoes, feta, and cucumber. A hit!

EAT: Westline Inn, Westline

For a real local experience, head off the main road—and it feels as if it’s way off the road—to this hidden favorite, the Westline Inn. Formerly a chemical plant, Westline was transformed into an inn and restaurant by obvious risk-takers Trudy and John Pomeroy—a French-trained chef and his wife.

It is truly remote. You drive several miles on Route 219, then take turn onto West Line Rd. for three miles. (In complete darkness, it feels like thirty). The drive is definitely worth it, for the cozy warren of dining rooms, a fun and hopping gewgaw-filled bar. And, yep, the food.

Best Places to Stay in the PA Wilds – ANF

STAY: Kane Manor Inn, Kane

A bit outside of town on a residential street the historic Kane Manor Inn has been restored to its former glory, thanks to new owners, Debra and Ben Miller.

History of Kane Manor

Elizabeth Kane, the doctor/photographer wife of town namesake, Civil War General Thomas Kane, had this mansion built in 1896, after his death. Three generations of Kanes lived here. The last, Elisiah “Sashy” Kane III, opened it as an inn in 1931. He was quirky (not to mention a suspect in is wife’s drowning death – ultimately acquitted), and “a tinkerer.”

Downstairs, he installed a speakeasy and adorned it with risqué figurines and his own, shall we say, off-color, paintings. In 1983 the house turned over to investors, who sold off much of the furniture – but in 2003, the Manor became a inn once again.

Kane Manor was put up for sale again in 2020. The Millers had looked at numerous B&B’s around the Northeast, and “fell in love instantly” with this one.

Debra Miller, a Nutritional Bio-Chemist, has a yummy and illustrious place in food-science history. While directing research at the Hershey Company, she and her team discovered that dark chocolate is actually full of antioxidants and, surprisingly, healthy. It made international news at the time, and still resonates for chocolate lovers around the world.

When first looking at the Manor, Miller felt a strong “science girls of Kane” kinship with Elizabeth, another accomplished woman, who was one of the first graduates of the Female Medical College of Philadelphia in the mid 1800’s.

Ben owned an outdoor adventure outfitting company in Hershey – and knows all about the prominent biking scene, which draws a good number of visitors to this area from all over the world. Ben plans to open a kayak and bike shop (buy, rent) near an entry point to the 7.9 mile Knox & Kane Trail, close to the Manor.

First Impressions of Kane Manor

Lovely touches abound as befits a Federal Style manor of the 1890’s: upholstered couches and chairs, fireplaces, candle-wall sconces.

Sure, Debra has an advanced degree in Bio-Chemistry from Harvard, but she’s also got a fine decorator’s eye. She lavished her attention on the common rooms – creating traditionally grand but cozy parlors, a lovely dining room with decorative plaster fireplace and precious detailing, and a solarium perfect for sunshiny breakfasts.

There’s a huge patio – also with seating – overlooking an expansive lawn with fire pit.

Guest Rooms at Kane Manor

All 10 Manor rooms put one in mind of a tony country estate – sweetly decorated, nothing flashy. All sport hardwood floors, Oriental rugs, antique furniture, quilt bedspreads – and large flat screen TV’s.  Subway tiled bathrooms are immaculate and bright.  There are also 5 more rooms in the Carriage House.

Breakfast and Dining at Kane Manor Inn

The Millers serve a delicious hot gourmet breakfast, the likes of fresh fruit parfait, Quiche and home fries, each morning.

And by the end of 2023, they plan to bring back the basement Speakeasy: updating it somewhat without changing its historical quirkiness.

STAY: Lodge at Glendorn, Bradford (Relais & Chateaux)

This exquisite, rustic resort is so over the top rustic-chic, it merits its own Getaway Mavens post here. 

STAY: Mansion District Inn, Smethport

In the 1880’s Smethport experienced a Gilded Age building boom, with newly minted oil, lumber, and railroad tycoons commissioning in-town mansions. Although the riches might have waned, Smethport made a show of these still standing mini-castles by creating a walkable “Mansion District.” Grab a walking tour brochure and meander to see all 32 of them– or book a night in this one.

Holly McCrary, is the proud owner and innkeeper of the Mansion District Inn. It was initially built by Henry Hamlin, a wealthy oil, lumber, and gas, magnate, as a wedding gift for his daughter in the mid 1800s. It’s so of the time, you almost expect Teddy Roosevelt to stroll through the front door any minute. 

STAY: Olmsted Manor Retreat Center, Ludlow

A few caveats about the Olmsted Manor Retreat Center right off the bat. This historic and beautifully preserved stone mansion, built in 1917 for early Long Island Lighting Company (LILCO) investor, George Olmsted, is now a Methodist Church retreat.

Number one, Olmsted Manor is a church retreat. So if Christ-oriented quotes and sentiments in each room and its mission to “offer Christian hospitality like you have never experienced” makes you uncomfortable, and/or if air conditioning is essential for your well-being, then look elsewhere.

Olmsted Manor welcomes everyone, so if the above points are fine by you, by all means, consider it as a place to stay for your fly-fishing, crafting, quilting, musical, knitting, writing, scrapbooking, etc. group getaway. The rooms in the manor house are pretty, clean, and quaint – with a price that can’t be beat: $49 per person per night. That includes unlimited time in the 1917-era duck-pin bowling alley in the attic. (BYOB- Bring your own breakfast.)

All articles belong to Getaway Mavens LLC, and all photos belong to us as well, unless otherwise noted. It’s all copyrighted. Please don’t repost anything elsewhere without asking us first. All rights reserved. This site uses cookies to enhance your experience.

We make no guarantees of any price listed on our site. We’re not responsible for content on external websites linked to ours, including linked resources, an external blog post, any partner site, hotel property sites, or affiliate sites. We only write about places we have vetted, but can’t guarantee that your experience will be exactly the same.

Posts may contain affiliate links at no cost to you. Several of our trips are also compensated by the respective tourism boards for the city or state we are visiting. This never impacts how we share the destination with you – opinions are always our own and we pride ourselves on that. We do not sell links or accept unsolicited guest posts under any circumstances. Don’t even ask.

United States Copyright, Getaway Mavens, LLC